![]() ![]() This resin is an organic solvent and will smear most types of ink used by pens or printers once it has been in contact with the texture for a few seconds. *If you have a printed texture that you wish to preserve for later modifications, score areas of interest lightly with a blade, continue to do so after every external resin coat. Glueing cardboard to the inside works well *If you are using any type of flimsy paper, make sure and reinforce the armor before beginning or the piece will likely end up warped. Make sure before you start that you are in a well ventelated area resin is clear so spraying it with a primer after it has hardened will give you a better idea of how smooth it is and what areas should be concentrated on some bondo body filler can make life easier by reinforcing some piecesĩ. Proper safety equipment (resperator, protective eyewear etc.) this stuff is TOXIC/carcinogenic/etc.Ĩ. Poster board or something that you can set the piece on while you work on it and not get resin everywhereħ. Something to sand with that has a med-fine grit (power sander preferred, also sanding sponges, and or sandpaper)Ħ. Minimum of 2 Paintbrushes *at least one inch in diameterĤ. ![]() Once you have completed folding and glueing/tapeing your paper armor you will need these supplies.ģ. This process works best with cardstock though it will work with all types of paper. To make your cardstock/paper/cardboard more durable and look closer to the textured game model, here are a few steps to toughen and smooth that armor. Pepakura's sharp folds leave you with a very angular product at the end of the day. ![]()
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